What is the difference between r16 and r17 tires

Tyre Upsize Guide. Gagan Modi. Diwali Festival Offers. Comments Guest - Chris on Saturday, 04 September Cancel Update Comment. Guest - Rishi on Sunday, 21 February Guest - Ashif on Sunday, 31 January My car is indica. Guest - Manoranjan Meher on Wednesday, 28 October Can I replace 60 R16 steel wheels with 50 R17 alloy wheels in my creta ? Guest - Tarun on Monday, 21 September What should be alternate to 50 r17 ecosport to avoid tyre burst?

Guest - Tomm Abdul on Sunday, 20 September Guest - Pankaj M on Friday, 11 September Guest - Tilak on Sunday, 30 August Guest - Sidney on Monday, 17 August Guest - Amit Gupta on Sunday, 05 July Guest - Anshul Singh on Sunday, 02 August Guest - Anonymous on Saturday, 09 May For a VW polo trendline. Depends on a lot of things which would be best for you.

With a 17" you will have less sidewall to flex during offroad excursions. That means you have a higher chance of bending, or breaking a wheel, and less possible traction. You can pick up a full set of 16" or even 15" steel rims for cheap, I would compare the costs of the whole package and how you plan on using your KJ to make your decision. Now I have to see if my extended warrentee is going to be affected by changing the tire height tip from another libby owner in my neck of the woods Posted: Tue Mar 03, pm.

I have a small amount of rubbing that was fixed by using a heat gun and a little bending of the black plastic liner. It only ever rubbed at full lock, and since the heat gun treatment now there is no rubbing.

I had no issue with the pinch weld. I did not want to get 16" rims as I like the look of the 17" ones I have. If you want greater selection, 16" is definately better. Hope this helps. In theory, the biggest difference will come from snow performance, but in practice the objective timed differences were tiny! Subjectively there was a slightly bigger gap between the three winter tyre sizes, but again it was very close.

The 17 inch wheel and tyre combination proved to have the best overall balance, giving you a predictable and stable car, whereas the 16" seemed to be a little quicker on the front axle which resulted in oversteer at the rear, and the 18" gave you less communication at the limit which resulted in surprise understeer at points.

During wet testing the situation changed in favour of the wider tyres, but again the gaps were tiny. The narrower 16" tyre was always going to win the aquaplaning testing, and it even managed to split the 17" and 18" tyres during wet braking, but it was half a second off the 17" and 18" tyres during wet handling.

However, this can be taken to an extreme and becomes tacky and stupid looking. Also, personally, I think large rims with dinky little stock brakes i. As alluded to with the "Detroit" comment, particularly low-profile tires like 35 series can easily be damaged by holes in the road. Replacing your own tires is unlikely to be something you can do on your own unless you own specialized mounting and balancing equipment and a high volume air compressor.

The low profile isn't just a risk to the tire, but the wheel itself. With less rubber between the road and the metal wheel, if you hit a good size pot hole at speed, you will bend your rim and have to replace it. Primary reason for a larger rotor mechanically at least, not aesthetically is for stronger braking force. The rotor acts as a lever, the larger it is the more stopping power you have from the same sized caliper.

If that's the case, what would be the point of stronger force? Actual primary reason is that when you race, you need to be able to just get to lock-up point but never cross it over a considerable duration of time and this is where heat becomes your enemy and larger rotors help a lot. Same thing with pistons I can lock up my lbs SUV with 1-piston calipers , more pistons is about spreading the load so brakes last longer, not force — DXM.

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